Watch Out for Mobile Meth Labs!

Agua Dulce to Kennedy Meadows

Why is it called “Casa de Luna?” I asked my self over a mountainous pile of taco salad in the evening, then an equally substantial stack of pancakes in the morning. The eight hikers who stayed posed for a photo in front of our hosts’ garage, amid bags of recycling, mostly beer cans. Our hosts stood in the drive way, one holding a camer, the other with thumbs placed in her pants waistband. “One, two... three! All eight of us turned in horror as the “Luna” part was revealed. So that’s why the pictures of hikers are so... awkward.

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Won’t you take me to? Hikertown? Won’t you take me to? Hikertown...
I have now validated my thru-hiker permit, having passed mile 500. I made my way along a fence line in the quickly darkening evening on my way to Hikertown. Coming up was one of the more feared PCT sections. 16 miles of violently exposed desert. Hikers who tread this far must walk dusty sandy roads avoiding green Mojave rattlers and mobile meth labs with taped over headlamps.

So as the vehicle approached, headlights dimmed my duct tape. I dove off the side of the road, hiding behind a rather unsubstantial creosote bush. Poor Ninja Tortoise was left to talk to himself and face the van alone. His stitched together 20 year old REI pack slapped against the back of his thighs as the van lurked closer.

However much I would like to relate a dangerous or interesting incident, to do so would be a lie. 16 miles passed in five easy night hiking hours. Ninja Tortoise and I camped under the stars at Cottonwood Creek, a generous name for a dry wash under a bridge.

As Zoner, who I caught up with climbing out of the desert, and I lay under a Pinon Pine passing the hot afternoon, three hikers came wheezing around a corner. Determined to make the road by evening. All three had blisters. It is difficult to NOT sound like a bossy, know-it-all, but hikers shouldn't do this. It is not wise to hiker in 90 degree plus temperatures. you WILL get blisters, you WILL be in pain. This is why I hiked the aqueduct at night and this is why Zoner was well known for taking considerable breaks in the afternoon. 20 before 12:00 and 10 after 5:00 will get you to Canada very quickly!

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The Tehachapi Mountains are tough. There are lots of ups and downs, it’s hot, tiring. Well. That's what people tell you. Challenging miles become significantly easier when the temperature doesn’t peak above 60. Zorro and I, who were in Mojave at the same time made our way through the mountains under partly cloudy skies and a persistent wind. Other hikers we met along way included Scratches and Oasis, Ninja Tortoise, Lei Low, and Suntan and Waffles, a duo of prolific drinkers from Chico. They packed a 32 ounce water container full of something resembling paint thinner mixed with lighter fluid. The “Rum dummies” which they mixed, one part Gatorade and ten times that of the lighter fluid, resulted in a drink that caused my eyes to bleed with a mere sniff. I didn’t get any closer to it than a sniff. One hiker got too close to it and ended up with a Rum Dummy mashed potato bacon smoothie covered sleeping bag in the morning.

I can’t imagine mixing alcohol with hiking. Thought I don’t mix alcohol with anything personally.

So Suntan, Waffles, Scratches, and Oasis were slightly subdued at camp that eevening. Those four, Ninja Tortoise, Lei Low, Zorro, and I shared a campsite and fire. My first fire on trail. This was also the largest group I camped with to this point. And was only exceeded by a group in the southern Sierras.

The next morning it actually snowed. I was an interesting sight making my way along the trail wearing a $1.99 clear plastic poncho.

Farewell Zorro. We will miss your trekking pole slashed “Z” in the trail and snow.
Scratches, Oasis, Zorro, and I shared pizza in Lake Isabella before Zorro made his way off to other things. With a two month visa, he was unlikely to make the Sierras in his allotted time. He will return to take on the entire PCT.

I Left Walker pass with a hiker whom I had met a couple time, and seen braving 95 degree temperatures at 3:00 in the afternoon near Mojave. Sheik Olivier and I ended up hiking together quite a bit! We arrived after two nights and 50 miles at Kennedy Meadows.

KM, as It is called signals the beginning of the Sierras. This is where ice axes, crampons, puffy jackets, and bear canisters are sent. The tiny outpost is set on the edge of a sage meadow at the 7000. Hikers gather, talk, and team up to face the still snowy mountains.