June 24 2009
Chama to Silverthorne
I can see the sign from last year in my mind “You’ll never make it!” I have been warned, but my experience in snow so far has been decent. I am confident that I can make it. I can always turn around and road walk...
So I made my first 65 mile leg in three days. From Chama, I climbed quickly to 12,000 feet into nearly full snow cover. The snow was firm however, and postholing was limited to the edges of snow fields. The trail was non existent and were it not for my GPS it would have taken me twice as long to find my way to Wolf Creek Pass.
My mileage was down from upper twenties to lower twenties, but that is ok! I don’t need to average 30 miles per day in this type of terrain.
After successfully coming out of the wilderness, I hitched down to Pagosa SPrings in an unlikely vehicle. I have never before been picked up by anyone driving a gigantic shiny black hummer. This was a first.
I spent two days in Pagosa, preparing my self for the 116 mile jouney through the mountains. Some other hikers were taking the road rout through Crede. The stretch from Cumbres Pass to Wolf Creek had given me confidence. The flourescent fleece blanket I had purchased for four dollars in Chama had given me that extra layer of warmth I needed at night as well. I was tempted to stay another two nights so I could catch the new Star Trek movie, but three motel nights is enough!
I cannot adequately put into words the epic trek from Wolf Creek Pass to Spring Pass. I didn’t see one person, one car, hear one human noise for a whole week. I saw some boot prints where the CDT and Colorado Trail merge. There were so many dramatic moments and fantastic sights. The Knife Edge, a spine of rock with solid snow pack on its north side was a bit of a puzzle. The north side was in my opinion impassable. I decided to bag the low summit and walk the ridge rather than the slope.
The next day I saw a bear above 11,000 feet! I had to thaw out my frozen shoes by plunging them into a snowmelt stream. I took in the silence and relished in the wilderness experience. I would hike the CDT again, just for that experience.
For in depth commentary see my log, www.trailjournals.com/sangabrielcdt
It snowed on my final night where I camped mere yards from Spring Creek Pass. just below 11,000 feet.
I tried hitching to lake city but was ignored by many vehicles. I started wlking the 20 miles in hopes of making it by nightfall. After two hows A luxury car with rental stickers slowed. A women with a thick french accent offered me a ride. She and her Husband, who spoke no english, gave me a ride to town. They knew vaguely what I was doing. They knew I was a hiker, but nothing of the CDT. “It is 4000 kilometers” I told the woman. She translated to her husband, who’s head spun around like a top asked me shocked. “quatremille kilomètres???”
I don’t think of myself as some sort of ego freak, but I do enjoy those reactions.
---
In Lake City, I took another two zero days, feasting at the bakery and even playing a little softball! Friday night, Star Trek was scheduled to play at the local one screen weekend only theater. I thought about staying another night, but they changed their schedule. It was going to be X-Men. I left.
A local trail angel gave me a ride to the trail where I saw OOO. He had just emerged from the San Juans in what must have been an equally ridiculous journey. It snowed on him, inches.
And so I continued alone. The snow had been thick at the beginning of the San Juans, but melted daily. This 100 mile leg went by quickly. Route finding was easy. THe beginning was high alpine tundra, but by day two I was hiking along a river. By day three I was in a Sage field with no snow in sight. But the trail did climb up again.
Approaching Monarch Pass, it was hailing lightly, sort of snowing, they call it “grapple.”
I trotted down a mellow hill on my way to Monarch Pass, hoping to get there in time to catch my resupply box. It was near noon and I still had 15 miles to go. I heard someone tucked into the trees shout “The trail is over here” I slowed to say hello and was shocked to find three familiar faces, Robocop, JB, and Special K. These were the first people I had seen while hiking on trail since... Well I briefly met a section hiker near Chama, Hmm. Well. This was the first time I had hiked WITH people since OOO before host Ranch. It had been almost a month, and over 500 miles.
So four of us headed into the final alpine stretch on our way to Monarch Pass. Snow coverage was heavy, and the trail was nonexistent. But it was fairly easy to follow as it was all on the western slope. We made it to Monarch Pass after the posted hours of the store where my box was stored, but as luck would have it, the owner was there and was happy to fetch my supplies.
I was going to hike on, but the offer of a free motel room and the opportunity for warm food was two tempting. I took two more zeroes in Salida.
Salida is a very pleasant town. It has all the services, motels, giant mega-supermarkets, many restaurants. They had a theater and Terminator was scheduled to play, Star Trek was due the next week. There happened to be a bike race in town so the motels were booked. We had five people sharing a room.
When we daparted I took to the high route again, as the other four, well five hikers went for the slightly lower Colorado Trail.
The CDT was manageable and snow cover limited to north faces and shaded areas. There were some steep sections and one pass which got my heart beating. I stood ont he precipice looking down to Lake Anne. The north facing bowl was covered completely I paced along the cornice looking for the least steep slope. Finally i dove in, I made it down the slope in mere minutes with a combination of running and glissading.
After I made it down, it started raining hard. I was determined however to make it to Twin Lakes and my resupply box by 5:00 I continued, covered in my $1.99 plastic poncho. I crested another 12,000 foot pass and was surprised to find no snow. It is funny how two similarly shaped areas can have completely different conditions. I trudged across the belly deep outlet of Twin Lakes and made it to the restaurant in pouring rain at 4:00. I sorted my food and indulged in hot soup. Sodden and cold I decided to hitch to Leadville.
I stood on the side of the road as countless cars flew past spraying me with fine mist. an hour later I hefted my pack and walked out. I had enough food to make it to Silverthorne. It rained during the night and into the next morning.
I had given some thought to climbing Mt. Elbert, but by the time it had stopped raining, I was 10 miles past the trailhead. It cleared up nicely that day and I was able to dry my gear. Mosquitoes had just started to come out, and I could immediately tell that it was going to be buggy for the rest of Colorado. I donned my head net while hiking in the evening.
The next day brought me just shy of Tennessee Pass under clear skies. A day later I was past Copper mountain, I had hiked through the resort passed golfers, with my filthy aged pack and scruffy beard. They looked at me with a mixture of distain, curiosity and horror. as I dangerous?
The next day I had an easy 15 or so miles to Silverthorne, or so I thought. Finding a fully snow covered pass in the morning reminded me of where I was. The south side was covered as well! At a trail half way through, I was tempted to hike out to Dillon, but continued. I made it over another 12,000 foot pass in full snow coverage and glissaded the other side, quickly descending to the river. From there I found the trail and made it to the post office at 4:45, 15 minutes before closing.
Now showered, I sat down at the computer in the hostel. I noticed that there was a nine screen theater and checked the showings. Star Trek! Woohoo!!! I saw the final showing in that theater.
Silverthorne though big is easy enough to get around. I moved fromthe $33 per night to a $43 per night motel room with 80 channels , a mini fridge and a king sized bed. I went twice to the local AYCE chinese buffet. And found a decent natural food store.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Do You Have Any Water?
May 27 2009
Crazy Cook to Chama
Here I am again. I can feel my legs, resisting at first, but then giving in “Oh, right this again.” they say as they start to comply with my commands. One foot in front of the other, five or six million times. I will be going 2500-2800 miles this year depending on what route I take.
Speaking of routes. I will be discussing them a lot over the next few months. The Continental Divide Trail covers an as yet to be determined number of miles between the border of Mexico and New Mexico and Glacier Park at Canadian Border in Montana. There are many different routes hikers can take. They can go over peaks, beside them, river routes, mountain routes, road walks, bushwhacks... Purity lies in connecting steps.
---
I was lucky, catching a ride from California all the way to the Crazy Cook Monument in southern New Mexico. Trekker, who I met last year in California, drove myself and another hiker, Tikka to the southern Terminus. Another hiker, Wrongway, was also dropped off at the same time.
The three of us hiked together from the unimpressive Crazy Cook Monument, a simple slab of concrete with writing on it. We were separated by nightfall. Wrongway and I camped together then and for the next three nights.
Between the border and Silver City, the terrain is flat and featureless. shrubs and grassed dot the landscape There is no shade and the sun shines harshly. It was a bit of a shock to the system ad it had snowed at my house the very morning I left.
In Silver City I happened on more hikers, and a fairly significant bike race. Giants in the cycling world such as Floyd Landis and Lance Armstrong were there. A hiker who I had met named Lost and I camped in the temporarily densely populated RV park. With thousands of people still in the small city, I headed north on a paved road toward actual trail.
6000 feet up, there are trees, pines, oaks. The trail was pleasant north of Silver City, however, with no GPS and one crucial lost map page I was on the road, walking on two paved lanes to Doc Campbell's Post on the Gila River.
I remark on this often, but it is incredible how hikers converge in towns. I met Robocop, Special K, Ellie, Laura, Aaron, and Cape Cod Mike, who I don’t believe was from Cape Cod.
---
The Gila river was a welcome break from arid desert. Robocop, Special K, Ellie, and I strolled across the many knee deep crossings on our way toward Snow Lake and more high desert. I wasn’t in a hurry. We stopped at the very idealic Jordan Hot Springs. It was only 94 degrees or so but very pleasant. The next day while hiking with Ellie, Out of Order caught up. I decided to hike with him to Pie Town as I had ordered a GPS and was having it shipped there. Out of Order, (OOO from here one) made it to Snow Lake that evening.
At Route 12 we were low on water. We had decided to forgo a murky cattle tank and nursed our almost empty bottles, 15 miles from a reliable spring. So thirsty, we held our bottles upside down, miming at the few cars that passed. 20 minutes later, a man pulled over with gallons of water which we used to fill our bottles. People in New Mexico will stop for hikers, especially if they have an empty water bottle. This was not the last time I begged for water from passing motorists.
And so after a 9700 foot summit in 90 plus degree heat, we made it to Pie Town, dusty and tired.
This was one of my favorite stops, ever. Pie Town has a population near 100. There are no stores, gas stations, stop lights, motels... But there are two restaurants that serve pie. As an outside and objective visitor, I can make a judgement on which is better. Witout question, the Pie-O-Neer Cafe is outstanding. Kathy is an absolute Jewel of a person, and an amazing pie maker. And she makes very good green chili.
Ok Maybe I wasn’t objective, maybe I was bribed. Kathy gave OOO and I a box of leftover pie at closing. (I still think the Pie-O-Neer is far superior)
At the Toaster House, a title appropriate due to the dozens of toasters hanging on the entrance, we met Jim. A cowboy with a long mustache, flannel shirt, the dirtiest hat I have ever seen, a horse named Butch and a dog named Slick. He told a lot of great stores about “dudes” and “jackalopes” We stayed up late hearing his stores and advice.
---
If you see a cave on a hillside, 30 miles north of Pie Town and feel like bushwhacking a mile off trail to investigate, don’t. OOO and I saw this cave, or so we thought. It was a trick of light.
So we camped in an open field six miles outh of the rim trail overlooking El Malpais Lava field. Central New Mexico is home to an expansive 3000 year old lava field, still rough and uneven. The rim trail offers an outstanding view of the barren expanse. Upon reaching the end of the rim trail and reaching a parking lot and a natural stone arch, I was forced to beg for water from... kindergartners... I am not exactly proud of that, but there was a school field trip and they happened to have water!
OOO and I then trod carefully across the hot lava... well solid, but hot black, hardened lava. There is a seven mile stretch of lava which is infamous for its difficulty to travel on, similar to the seven miles stretch of fallen spruce in northern Washington. While I preferred the fallen trees, the lava was not as bad as I expected and took just over three hours to walk.
---
Grants was my second major town, and my first all you can eat (AYCE) chinese buffet. My appetite had not yet kicked into full gear. The buffet helped. I enjoy meals in town so much more after eating cold dehydrated food on trail. After eating a second AYCE meal I waddled out of town up toward Mt. Taylor.
This was my highest summit, ever. I had tried to Summit Mt. Whitney in the Sierras, but failed due to taking the wrong route with few footsteps to follow. Mt Taylor was easy and on the way. The trail is being rerouted around the mountain but I decided to bag the peak. The view was outstanding. Mt. Taylor is fairly prominent and rises above the surrounding high desert.
I hiked this section alone, from Grants to Cuba. Once off the mountain I made quick miles. Full details can be found on my log at www.trailjournals.com/sangabrielcdt
Cuba NM is home to the best hostel I have yet visited. I stayed three nights for free thanks to my willingness to do some yard work. OOO arrived a day after I did and we built a 16 foot wide yurt for the owner!
My hunger was kicking in strong now and OOO and I split a meal. We ate over three pounds of pork, with tortillas, peppers, onions, corn... I topped that off with a pint of cookie dough ice cream.
The next day in minimal rain, we hiked up into the San Pedro Parks area. There was still snow on the ground in spots. There were some downpours which made the clay dirt exceedingly sticky. each step picked up pounds of mud. I would take three or four steps, then scrape my shoes, *step step step... scrape...* repeat.
Ghost Ranch made for a welcome break. The weather cleared up and I hiked up into more alpine terrain. This is the last leg in New Mexico. Just before the border, I started encountering considerable snow pack. The trail climbs above 11,000 feet for quite a few miles, affording hikers with views of the high desert, 4,000 feet below.
---
Thanks to persistent thunderstorms, I decided to take a lower route along a river rather than risk high ridge walking on the now more official route.
“I decided to to take the low route along the river, rather than walk a ridge in thunderstorms and risk being electrocuted, right? Sorry to disappoint you, my veracious reader-fans, but I wasn't electrocuted. There were no bolts of searing white electrons, not even a low voltage fence. (for hikers, it's Ley map NM4 upper right corner, for others, try and hang in there) The shaded triangle is private property. The red route SKIRTS the triangle to the east. I missed. "You know this is private property!" a husky... burly... bear-like man, wearing full camo said. Three other pairs of redneck eyes were glaring at my bearded bedraggled, hippyish self. "Well... Uhh... is it? But the map... here, uh..." I stuttered, looking for the nearest food co-op or socialist bookstore to hide in. None could be found. After a few tense minutes (probably only a few seconds) the man with beer kegs for forearms spoke. "Well, I'll tell ya what I'll do pardner." I expected he would merely turn me in, rather than field dress me on the spot. "I'll let ya go through, just don't stop til your on the other side." I scurried away. "I gotta send another complaint to the forestry.", I heard him say as I set a new land speed record for the north end of the shaded triangle.
To skirt this land, a hiker would have to walk cross country on a sometimes steep sidehill along the barbwire fence. The river beyond is beautiful. ICY cold water tumbles... well it tumbled for me, early monsoons and all... it runs (yawn) down gullies and through rocks. After I turned north (Lay map NM3 near #6), there was a mean bit of cross country travel. If you hike left, you'll be fine. It's steep up and steep down, but no trouble. I went that way. However, I first tried to go right, but I ran into a sheer cliff with a precipitous drop off, to what could be a bloody death on the sharp rocks below.”
~Me, May 27, 2009
---
It was May 28th. I was in Chama, mile 603, ready to enter the daunting, high alpine, craggy dramatic, icy South San Juan mountains of Colorado.
Crazy Cook to Chama
Here I am again. I can feel my legs, resisting at first, but then giving in “Oh, right this again.” they say as they start to comply with my commands. One foot in front of the other, five or six million times. I will be going 2500-2800 miles this year depending on what route I take.
Speaking of routes. I will be discussing them a lot over the next few months. The Continental Divide Trail covers an as yet to be determined number of miles between the border of Mexico and New Mexico and Glacier Park at Canadian Border in Montana. There are many different routes hikers can take. They can go over peaks, beside them, river routes, mountain routes, road walks, bushwhacks... Purity lies in connecting steps.
---
I was lucky, catching a ride from California all the way to the Crazy Cook Monument in southern New Mexico. Trekker, who I met last year in California, drove myself and another hiker, Tikka to the southern Terminus. Another hiker, Wrongway, was also dropped off at the same time.
The three of us hiked together from the unimpressive Crazy Cook Monument, a simple slab of concrete with writing on it. We were separated by nightfall. Wrongway and I camped together then and for the next three nights.
Between the border and Silver City, the terrain is flat and featureless. shrubs and grassed dot the landscape There is no shade and the sun shines harshly. It was a bit of a shock to the system ad it had snowed at my house the very morning I left.
In Silver City I happened on more hikers, and a fairly significant bike race. Giants in the cycling world such as Floyd Landis and Lance Armstrong were there. A hiker who I had met named Lost and I camped in the temporarily densely populated RV park. With thousands of people still in the small city, I headed north on a paved road toward actual trail.
6000 feet up, there are trees, pines, oaks. The trail was pleasant north of Silver City, however, with no GPS and one crucial lost map page I was on the road, walking on two paved lanes to Doc Campbell's Post on the Gila River.
I remark on this often, but it is incredible how hikers converge in towns. I met Robocop, Special K, Ellie, Laura, Aaron, and Cape Cod Mike, who I don’t believe was from Cape Cod.
---
The Gila river was a welcome break from arid desert. Robocop, Special K, Ellie, and I strolled across the many knee deep crossings on our way toward Snow Lake and more high desert. I wasn’t in a hurry. We stopped at the very idealic Jordan Hot Springs. It was only 94 degrees or so but very pleasant. The next day while hiking with Ellie, Out of Order caught up. I decided to hike with him to Pie Town as I had ordered a GPS and was having it shipped there. Out of Order, (OOO from here one) made it to Snow Lake that evening.
At Route 12 we were low on water. We had decided to forgo a murky cattle tank and nursed our almost empty bottles, 15 miles from a reliable spring. So thirsty, we held our bottles upside down, miming at the few cars that passed. 20 minutes later, a man pulled over with gallons of water which we used to fill our bottles. People in New Mexico will stop for hikers, especially if they have an empty water bottle. This was not the last time I begged for water from passing motorists.
And so after a 9700 foot summit in 90 plus degree heat, we made it to Pie Town, dusty and tired.
This was one of my favorite stops, ever. Pie Town has a population near 100. There are no stores, gas stations, stop lights, motels... But there are two restaurants that serve pie. As an outside and objective visitor, I can make a judgement on which is better. Witout question, the Pie-O-Neer Cafe is outstanding. Kathy is an absolute Jewel of a person, and an amazing pie maker. And she makes very good green chili.
Ok Maybe I wasn’t objective, maybe I was bribed. Kathy gave OOO and I a box of leftover pie at closing. (I still think the Pie-O-Neer is far superior)
At the Toaster House, a title appropriate due to the dozens of toasters hanging on the entrance, we met Jim. A cowboy with a long mustache, flannel shirt, the dirtiest hat I have ever seen, a horse named Butch and a dog named Slick. He told a lot of great stores about “dudes” and “jackalopes” We stayed up late hearing his stores and advice.
---
If you see a cave on a hillside, 30 miles north of Pie Town and feel like bushwhacking a mile off trail to investigate, don’t. OOO and I saw this cave, or so we thought. It was a trick of light.
So we camped in an open field six miles outh of the rim trail overlooking El Malpais Lava field. Central New Mexico is home to an expansive 3000 year old lava field, still rough and uneven. The rim trail offers an outstanding view of the barren expanse. Upon reaching the end of the rim trail and reaching a parking lot and a natural stone arch, I was forced to beg for water from... kindergartners... I am not exactly proud of that, but there was a school field trip and they happened to have water!
OOO and I then trod carefully across the hot lava... well solid, but hot black, hardened lava. There is a seven mile stretch of lava which is infamous for its difficulty to travel on, similar to the seven miles stretch of fallen spruce in northern Washington. While I preferred the fallen trees, the lava was not as bad as I expected and took just over three hours to walk.
---
Grants was my second major town, and my first all you can eat (AYCE) chinese buffet. My appetite had not yet kicked into full gear. The buffet helped. I enjoy meals in town so much more after eating cold dehydrated food on trail. After eating a second AYCE meal I waddled out of town up toward Mt. Taylor.
This was my highest summit, ever. I had tried to Summit Mt. Whitney in the Sierras, but failed due to taking the wrong route with few footsteps to follow. Mt Taylor was easy and on the way. The trail is being rerouted around the mountain but I decided to bag the peak. The view was outstanding. Mt. Taylor is fairly prominent and rises above the surrounding high desert.
I hiked this section alone, from Grants to Cuba. Once off the mountain I made quick miles. Full details can be found on my log at www.trailjournals.com/sangabrielcdt
Cuba NM is home to the best hostel I have yet visited. I stayed three nights for free thanks to my willingness to do some yard work. OOO arrived a day after I did and we built a 16 foot wide yurt for the owner!
My hunger was kicking in strong now and OOO and I split a meal. We ate over three pounds of pork, with tortillas, peppers, onions, corn... I topped that off with a pint of cookie dough ice cream.
The next day in minimal rain, we hiked up into the San Pedro Parks area. There was still snow on the ground in spots. There were some downpours which made the clay dirt exceedingly sticky. each step picked up pounds of mud. I would take three or four steps, then scrape my shoes, *step step step... scrape...* repeat.
Ghost Ranch made for a welcome break. The weather cleared up and I hiked up into more alpine terrain. This is the last leg in New Mexico. Just before the border, I started encountering considerable snow pack. The trail climbs above 11,000 feet for quite a few miles, affording hikers with views of the high desert, 4,000 feet below.
---
Thanks to persistent thunderstorms, I decided to take a lower route along a river rather than risk high ridge walking on the now more official route.
“I decided to to take the low route along the river, rather than walk a ridge in thunderstorms and risk being electrocuted, right? Sorry to disappoint you, my veracious reader-fans, but I wasn't electrocuted. There were no bolts of searing white electrons, not even a low voltage fence. (for hikers, it's Ley map NM4 upper right corner, for others, try and hang in there) The shaded triangle is private property. The red route SKIRTS the triangle to the east. I missed. "You know this is private property!" a husky... burly... bear-like man, wearing full camo said. Three other pairs of redneck eyes were glaring at my bearded bedraggled, hippyish self. "Well... Uhh... is it? But the map... here, uh..." I stuttered, looking for the nearest food co-op or socialist bookstore to hide in. None could be found. After a few tense minutes (probably only a few seconds) the man with beer kegs for forearms spoke. "Well, I'll tell ya what I'll do pardner." I expected he would merely turn me in, rather than field dress me on the spot. "I'll let ya go through, just don't stop til your on the other side." I scurried away. "I gotta send another complaint to the forestry.", I heard him say as I set a new land speed record for the north end of the shaded triangle.
To skirt this land, a hiker would have to walk cross country on a sometimes steep sidehill along the barbwire fence. The river beyond is beautiful. ICY cold water tumbles... well it tumbled for me, early monsoons and all... it runs (yawn) down gullies and through rocks. After I turned north (Lay map NM3 near #6), there was a mean bit of cross country travel. If you hike left, you'll be fine. It's steep up and steep down, but no trouble. I went that way. However, I first tried to go right, but I ran into a sheer cliff with a precipitous drop off, to what could be a bloody death on the sharp rocks below.”
~Me, May 27, 2009
---
It was May 28th. I was in Chama, mile 603, ready to enter the daunting, high alpine, craggy dramatic, icy South San Juan mountains of Colorado.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Gear, Gear, Gear, More Gear, Even More Gear.
September 30
Gear
It is always fun to list gear. And so here is what I used on my PCT hike.
Packs
GoLite Pinnacle, 25 oz frameless pack
I had no idea how t pack it, so it failed and was miserably uncomfortable.
At Idyllwild I switched out to a much larger internal frame pack, the GoLite Odyssey. It was huge, but light, and carried weight well. I used it until Donner Pass where I shed my winter gear. I then switched to a GoLite Jam2. With a roll up foam pad, it was perfect for my newly found love of all thing ultralight.
Pad
3/4 length Thermarest Z-Rest
I used this up to Donner summit with no complaints. At Donner Pass when I switched packs to a Jam2 I switched to a half length Ridgerest. This was all I needed for the rest of the trail.
Sleeping bags
Mountain Hardware Phantom 32 sleeping bag
I used a Phantom 0, zero degree bag in the sierras which was completely overkill, but I stayed very warm. I switched back to the Phantom 32 and didn’t zip it up once for the rest of the trip.
Tent
Shires Tarptent Rainbow. 32 ounce, single wall. It did have some condensation issues, but all single wall tents do. It kept out the bugs and worked well in the torrential rain of Washinton.
Cooking
I used a soda can alcohol stove made by Frankosaurus. He had a few extra. I had made my own, but it didn’t work well. I used a giant 1.3 liter titanium pot for cooking. I gave up cooking in Old Station, near Lassen, and began hydrating food in a peanut butter jar. This worked great! I would go stoveless again.
Hydration
I used a pump filter. Hiker Pro. 11 oz and fairly reliable. I was never ill, and I did drink straight from many water sources, especially high up. I drank out of soda bottles, and carried four liters for the driest sections. That dropped to one or two in the sierras, and Washington.
Clothes
For the most part, I wore long sleeves and pants. Light hiking pants and a button up violently orange shirt. My favorite other layer was my Marmot Driclimb Windshirt. It was warm, and I think I wore it every morning. I used it as a pillow, and as an extra layer of warthm at night if it was that cold. There were a few icy nights in Washington. I also had a puffy down jacket in the Sierras. The long sleeves saved me from the scorching sun. I mean, how many people do you see who live in Asian, and African deserts wearing shorts, huh? I think THEY know what they are doing.
Raingear
I used a $1.99 poncho until central Oregon where I switched out to a heavier nylon poncho, and used Dryducks rain gear for Washington. They are not very durable, but very cheap and worked better than any raincoat I had ever used. I think that I would simply use a poncho next time. Coats are too cumbersome, and don’t ventilate very well, even classy expensive ones.
Shoes
I started with Salomon light hiking shoes from REI which had no support.
In Idyllwild I was shipped a pair of cheap Nevado hiking shoes I had worn at home very happily. With Insoles they were tolerable. They were trashed within 250 miles.
In Agua Dulce, I switched to Merrell Moab Ventilators which were comfortable and minimally supportive. I wore two pairs of those between Agua Dulce and the end. I used a new pair of them for my mop up tour, and still use them for wrk. They are very durable, but not fast drying, and not very supportive.
Baseweight
I never accurately measured. But here are some rough estimates.
Campo to Idyllwild: 12 lbs
Idyllwild to KM: 13, Bigger pack
KM to Donner Pass: 17 lbs, ice axe and bear canister add a lot
Donner Pass to Shelter Cove Oregon 9 lbs, small pack and more careful packing
Shelter Cove to the end:10 lbs, added rain gear
Ashland to road 17: 7 lbs, bare essentials
Gear
It is always fun to list gear. And so here is what I used on my PCT hike.
Packs
GoLite Pinnacle, 25 oz frameless pack
I had no idea how t pack it, so it failed and was miserably uncomfortable.
At Idyllwild I switched out to a much larger internal frame pack, the GoLite Odyssey. It was huge, but light, and carried weight well. I used it until Donner Pass where I shed my winter gear. I then switched to a GoLite Jam2. With a roll up foam pad, it was perfect for my newly found love of all thing ultralight.
Pad
3/4 length Thermarest Z-Rest
I used this up to Donner summit with no complaints. At Donner Pass when I switched packs to a Jam2 I switched to a half length Ridgerest. This was all I needed for the rest of the trail.
Sleeping bags
Mountain Hardware Phantom 32 sleeping bag
I used a Phantom 0, zero degree bag in the sierras which was completely overkill, but I stayed very warm. I switched back to the Phantom 32 and didn’t zip it up once for the rest of the trip.
Tent
Shires Tarptent Rainbow. 32 ounce, single wall. It did have some condensation issues, but all single wall tents do. It kept out the bugs and worked well in the torrential rain of Washinton.
Cooking
I used a soda can alcohol stove made by Frankosaurus. He had a few extra. I had made my own, but it didn’t work well. I used a giant 1.3 liter titanium pot for cooking. I gave up cooking in Old Station, near Lassen, and began hydrating food in a peanut butter jar. This worked great! I would go stoveless again.
Hydration
I used a pump filter. Hiker Pro. 11 oz and fairly reliable. I was never ill, and I did drink straight from many water sources, especially high up. I drank out of soda bottles, and carried four liters for the driest sections. That dropped to one or two in the sierras, and Washington.
Clothes
For the most part, I wore long sleeves and pants. Light hiking pants and a button up violently orange shirt. My favorite other layer was my Marmot Driclimb Windshirt. It was warm, and I think I wore it every morning. I used it as a pillow, and as an extra layer of warthm at night if it was that cold. There were a few icy nights in Washington. I also had a puffy down jacket in the Sierras. The long sleeves saved me from the scorching sun. I mean, how many people do you see who live in Asian, and African deserts wearing shorts, huh? I think THEY know what they are doing.
Raingear
I used a $1.99 poncho until central Oregon where I switched out to a heavier nylon poncho, and used Dryducks rain gear for Washington. They are not very durable, but very cheap and worked better than any raincoat I had ever used. I think that I would simply use a poncho next time. Coats are too cumbersome, and don’t ventilate very well, even classy expensive ones.
Shoes
I started with Salomon light hiking shoes from REI which had no support.
In Idyllwild I was shipped a pair of cheap Nevado hiking shoes I had worn at home very happily. With Insoles they were tolerable. They were trashed within 250 miles.
In Agua Dulce, I switched to Merrell Moab Ventilators which were comfortable and minimally supportive. I wore two pairs of those between Agua Dulce and the end. I used a new pair of them for my mop up tour, and still use them for wrk. They are very durable, but not fast drying, and not very supportive.
Baseweight
I never accurately measured. But here are some rough estimates.
Campo to Idyllwild: 12 lbs
Idyllwild to KM: 13, Bigger pack
KM to Donner Pass: 17 lbs, ice axe and bear canister add a lot
Donner Pass to Shelter Cove Oregon 9 lbs, small pack and more careful packing
Shelter Cove to the end:10 lbs, added rain gear
Ashland to road 17: 7 lbs, bare essentials
Monday, September 15, 2008
I Didn’t Know Marble Was This Flammable.
September 15
Ashland to Etna, sort of
I was hosted in Seattle by extended family. They treated me to my favorite northwest ice cream, Tillamook Mudslide. Very good stuff for a half gallon container. Normally a thru hiker has to watch their diet very closely upon finishing a hike. They still feel as if they need 5000 calories a day, even though they are not burning that much. But in my defense, I still have 150 miles to go. I have more, but I have decided to hold off on the stretch from Sierra City to Chester. Due to fire, that section was closed for nearly all of this year’s hikers.
I left Seattle with a giant turkey sandwich in my possession, arriving by train in Salem to visit more family. I must have ate 20 pounds of cherry tomatoes before leaving by bus the next day en route to Medford, where I hitched to Ashland to start hiking south.
After nearly a week of zeroes, it felt great to be walking again. What am I going to do with myself when I get back home? I thought.
After 15 miles, I found a cooler stocked with sodas! I don’t recall whether I have discussed “trail magic.” This is when a hiker finds something unexpected n trail such as a cooler full of sodas, fresh fruit, a guy making sandwiches, a guy giving rides and letting hikers stay at his house. People go out of their way to support hikers which gives us much needed morale boosts. I could have survived the 75 degree late summer day without a root beer, but is was a bonus.
I camped high up, under a stout pine tree. With clear skies and views of lights from distant towns, I “cowboy camped” under the stars.
I wanted an early start so I could knock out as many miles as possible the next day. It was now late in summer and daylight had decreased. I was up at dawn, about 5:30 and walking 15 minutes later. From my camp above 6000 feet, it was a long mellow descent to Siead Valley, home of the famous five pound pancake challenge. The trail was easy and the weather was pleasant. I made highway 96 at about 7:00, 43 miles into my hiking day. I had hoped to get this far, not expecting to go further. But with a little daylight left, and nothing but road to walk on, I decided to go further. It was another 8 miles to Grider Camp, near the northern border of the Marble Mountains.
And so at 9:30 pm, in the dark I arrived at my destination, sore and tired after about 15 hours of hiking and a 51 mile day. I laid down my tyvek ground cloth , pulled my sleeping bag out and fell asleep quickly.
Feeling refreshed in the morning, I moved futher south, gaining elevation into the Marble Mountains. About 10 miles in, I reached a bit of a clearing with a view south. Ahead of me was a plume of smoke reaching thousands of feet in the air. I took out my compass to check how close to the trail it might be, and quickly turned around and jogged back to highway 96.
Upon reaching Etna by way of hitching, I received news that that a controlled fire had jumped and exploded into an inferno, somewhat close to the trail. It is not in the cards for me to hike the Marbles this year. I tried twice!
So with two full days to go until being picked up by family in Yreka, I jumped on trail just south of the Marble Mountains and headed further south. The views in the Russian Wilderness are rather like northern Washington, just slightly more arid. The terrain is steep, but the trail traversed the ridges pleasantly.
On the third day, early in the morning, I was done. I now had continuous footsteps from Chester to Etna, and the Northern Marble Mountains to Canada. This, I told myself, was enough. This was the trail this year.
In total, I walked nearly 2500 miles.
If I encounter closures the next time I hike the PCT, I will find alternate routes to connect my steps. But I have no regrets for this year.
before I started, I had never been out for more than five nights, and had never hiked more that 50 miles in a single trek. I had never had to resupply in a town between sections of trail.
I met a lot of great people out there this year, hiking sections with Zoner, Frankosaurus, Zorro, Lei Low, Tarzan, Zelda, Ninja Tortoise, Scratches, Oasis, The Sheik, Lumbar, Voyageur and Forrest. I met many more, too many to mention.
So I am hooked. I thought maybe this would break up the time in between years and years of school, but I feel like more. I spent the last 700 miles planning on future treks.
So what is on the docket for the next few years? Appalachian Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Northern Forest Canoe Trail, Te Araroa (the longest trail in New Zealand,) Sendero de Chile (Length of Chile) GR10, GR11, Sail around the world? It will be exceedingly difficult to settle down. Stay tuned for more!
Ashland to Etna, sort of
I was hosted in Seattle by extended family. They treated me to my favorite northwest ice cream, Tillamook Mudslide. Very good stuff for a half gallon container. Normally a thru hiker has to watch their diet very closely upon finishing a hike. They still feel as if they need 5000 calories a day, even though they are not burning that much. But in my defense, I still have 150 miles to go. I have more, but I have decided to hold off on the stretch from Sierra City to Chester. Due to fire, that section was closed for nearly all of this year’s hikers.
I left Seattle with a giant turkey sandwich in my possession, arriving by train in Salem to visit more family. I must have ate 20 pounds of cherry tomatoes before leaving by bus the next day en route to Medford, where I hitched to Ashland to start hiking south.
After nearly a week of zeroes, it felt great to be walking again. What am I going to do with myself when I get back home? I thought.
After 15 miles, I found a cooler stocked with sodas! I don’t recall whether I have discussed “trail magic.” This is when a hiker finds something unexpected n trail such as a cooler full of sodas, fresh fruit, a guy making sandwiches, a guy giving rides and letting hikers stay at his house. People go out of their way to support hikers which gives us much needed morale boosts. I could have survived the 75 degree late summer day without a root beer, but is was a bonus.
I camped high up, under a stout pine tree. With clear skies and views of lights from distant towns, I “cowboy camped” under the stars.
I wanted an early start so I could knock out as many miles as possible the next day. It was now late in summer and daylight had decreased. I was up at dawn, about 5:30 and walking 15 minutes later. From my camp above 6000 feet, it was a long mellow descent to Siead Valley, home of the famous five pound pancake challenge. The trail was easy and the weather was pleasant. I made highway 96 at about 7:00, 43 miles into my hiking day. I had hoped to get this far, not expecting to go further. But with a little daylight left, and nothing but road to walk on, I decided to go further. It was another 8 miles to Grider Camp, near the northern border of the Marble Mountains.
And so at 9:30 pm, in the dark I arrived at my destination, sore and tired after about 15 hours of hiking and a 51 mile day. I laid down my tyvek ground cloth , pulled my sleeping bag out and fell asleep quickly.
Feeling refreshed in the morning, I moved futher south, gaining elevation into the Marble Mountains. About 10 miles in, I reached a bit of a clearing with a view south. Ahead of me was a plume of smoke reaching thousands of feet in the air. I took out my compass to check how close to the trail it might be, and quickly turned around and jogged back to highway 96.
Upon reaching Etna by way of hitching, I received news that that a controlled fire had jumped and exploded into an inferno, somewhat close to the trail. It is not in the cards for me to hike the Marbles this year. I tried twice!
So with two full days to go until being picked up by family in Yreka, I jumped on trail just south of the Marble Mountains and headed further south. The views in the Russian Wilderness are rather like northern Washington, just slightly more arid. The terrain is steep, but the trail traversed the ridges pleasantly.
On the third day, early in the morning, I was done. I now had continuous footsteps from Chester to Etna, and the Northern Marble Mountains to Canada. This, I told myself, was enough. This was the trail this year.
In total, I walked nearly 2500 miles.
If I encounter closures the next time I hike the PCT, I will find alternate routes to connect my steps. But I have no regrets for this year.
before I started, I had never been out for more than five nights, and had never hiked more that 50 miles in a single trek. I had never had to resupply in a town between sections of trail.
I met a lot of great people out there this year, hiking sections with Zoner, Frankosaurus, Zorro, Lei Low, Tarzan, Zelda, Ninja Tortoise, Scratches, Oasis, The Sheik, Lumbar, Voyageur and Forrest. I met many more, too many to mention.
So I am hooked. I thought maybe this would break up the time in between years and years of school, but I feel like more. I spent the last 700 miles planning on future treks.
So what is on the docket for the next few years? Appalachian Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Northern Forest Canoe Trail, Te Araroa (the longest trail in New Zealand,) Sendero de Chile (Length of Chile) GR10, GR11, Sail around the world? It will be exceedingly difficult to settle down. Stay tuned for more!
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Dim Sum and Den Some!
September 4
Bridge of the Gods to Manning Park
After two beautiful days of sun in Skykomish I returned to the PCT and once again torrential rain. I made 23 miles under the protection of my poncho and camped with a couple people who had llamas.
The next day was closer to 30 miles, crossing several of the infamous northern Cascades’ creeks. I cannot recount views, as I had none. I ate Huckleberries and met one southbound hiker.
Day three was more of the same, but as the afternoon progressed, it got much more interesting.
I dried out my gear in the first sun I had seen since Skykomish when I was met by more hikers, Mapman and Robin, as well as Serpico and Chris. After drying my gear I climbed the 2000 feet with Serpico and Chris to the higher wildflower fields on the shoulders of Glacier Peak.
Coming up was the infamous seven miles stretch of 400 blowdowns, 400 trees crossing the trail. This included old growth monsters, ten feet wide. It is said to take up to seven hours to make it through.
The three of us started down toward the the equally infamous Suiattle River, more to come on that momentarily. “I thought it would be trees wrapped by vines, cris-crossed into a torturous pattern, impassable… no, not even close. It took us about two hours! I thought of it as a sort of obstacle course like the TV program Ninja Warrior! We vaulted small logs and ducked under monster dead spruce logs.” ~ San Gabriel’s journal dated August 26, 2008.
Then came the Suiattle. This is also from my journal from August 26.
“I have been warned about the treacherous and possibly fatal Suiattle River. There is a scene in Mel Brooks’ Robin Hood Men in Tights when Robin, Achoo, and Blinken must cross a river guarded by Little John. Achoo in his infinite wisdom points out “This ain’t exactly the Mississippi.” I felt a bit like Achoo upon reaching the Suiattle. Though the water was silty and swift, it was shallow and had a very stable log across it, which I walked without much of a thought to the danger gushing by below me. It wasn’t that bad.
There is something that I have learned on my voyage this year: Don’t believe what people tell you! I was told Apache Peak was dangerous, so I took the alternate. After that I vowed to look for myself. The sign at Santiam Pass was… foreboding but hilarious! The area turned out to be safe and navigable. And the Suiattle River was an easier crossing than most of the Sierra rivers and MUCH easier than the gushing torrent I faced before Steven’s Pass.”
The next morning I awoke early and made 21 quick miles to the nearest road. This happened to be the road to Stehekin, an isolated one way gravel number with access between the PCT and the hamlet on the northern end of the fjord-like Lake Chalan.
Here I found Voyageur and Forrest, who had arrived at noon, on the earlier shuttle. I crammed my tent into a nook between trees on the steep grade in the free camp ground.
“The little hamlet exists out of time on the northern shores of dramatic fjord-like Lake Chalan, a glacial fed 50 mile waterway that feeds the Columbia River. The elevation here is about 1500 feet but the mountains tower above the icy deep water, disappearing somewhere in the omnipresent clouds. In the town, a few buildings are scattered along the shore, a post office, restaurant, inn, and a considerable number of residences. There are also a fair many cars, but I have no idea where they get gas! It’s a 50 mile fairy ride to the nearest stoplight!” ~ Me, 8-27-08
“There is much hullabaloo about the Stehekin bakery. The three of us went to said bakery for breakfast, sharing rolls, scones, coffee cake… I must say I am impressed! For a small town Bakery it was very good! The scones were top notch. And the rolls were exceedingly sticky and flaky, simultaneously! I left overly full with a bag of bagels for less than $10. That is less than I would spend on a stack of pancakes and orange juice at any restaurant! I will make a similar return tomorrow before trekking out for the final 88 miles.” -~ Me again, 8-28-08
Delayed by an unfortunate backpack mixup, Forrest and I left after Voyageur on the afternoon of the 29th. It rained several times, but not for very long. We camped in a huckleberry field.
Voyageur was still ahead of us on the 31st and were given news of this several times during the day. Forrest and I awoke, south of Hearts Pass with an inch of snow on the ground. With my hands tucked into my pockets, we paced quickly along the grassy alpine hillsides. We were met by a Hiker named “Phew” So named for the sound she made. “Are you San gabriel and someone else?” She asked Forrest, who was 50 feet in front of me. “Well he is San Gabriel and *I* am someone else.” I think Forrest earned a trailname.
At about 3:00 after fairly ridiculous mileage we finally caught up with Voyageur. We had decided to finish together when we were in Stehekin. And so now we could. We camped early after descending from our last bit of trail above 7000 feet.
From Hopkins Lake, our last camp, it was a mere seven miles to the border. We all had our celebratory border food. Voyageur had prepared a no bake cheesecake which he planned on topping with Huckleberries. Forrest had some classy chocolate, and I had kippered hearing and crackers, in honor of my Norwegian heritage.
On the last switchback with views of the border swath we descended to the border monument. 2650 miles separate the two nearly identical monuments, though the one at Campo was significantly more sun-bleached.
We took an hour at the monument eating our various treats and taking photos under partly cloudy skies. I was overjoyed to be there, but several hundred miles of burned forest in California nagged at me. “gotta finish, gotta finish, gotta finish gotta...” a mantra continued in my head. But for now, I would celebrate.
We were joined presently by Mapman and Robin.
In all, seven hikers left Manning Park en route to Vancouver the next morning. The five of us, accompanied by Lumbar, with whom I had hiked in the Sierras, and Lucky, who I had met in Old Station and Cascade Locks, rode into the bustling metropolis of Vancouver in the early afternoon.
Voyageur and Forrest had made a contact in Leavenworth. That contact had a loft in Vancouver! So we base-camped out of said loft. We enjoyed Indian food our first evening. Voyageur left the next day. Now to find Park Lock.
Vancouver has one of the larger Chinatowns. In 1996 or so I had eaten the most incredible Dim Sum at a restaurant in this very town. I had an address. From the loft it was only 10 blocks to my destination. I looked across the street to the windows on the second story of a dilapidated structure. There it was. I had walked 2500 miles to dine here... Or that’s what I told myself. Racks of clothing blocked the entrance. I looked longingly into the windows for signs of life. The woman who was peddling clothing blocking the entrance shook her head apologetically at me. I circled the other block, only seeing the hours listed in Chinese. I tried again the next day.
I also visited the University, where I had once thought of attending should I pursue a doctorate. I made a pilgrimage to the Olympic village, under construction on the waterfront.
Heartbroken, I left Vancouver with the second best Dim Sum I had ever had in a cardboard box. I had eaten a dozen steamed buns, “Bao” and numerous other dumplings.
One day I will return. For now, I am satisfied and headed to Northern California after I visit family in Seattle and Salem.
Bridge of the Gods to Manning Park
After two beautiful days of sun in Skykomish I returned to the PCT and once again torrential rain. I made 23 miles under the protection of my poncho and camped with a couple people who had llamas.
The next day was closer to 30 miles, crossing several of the infamous northern Cascades’ creeks. I cannot recount views, as I had none. I ate Huckleberries and met one southbound hiker.
Day three was more of the same, but as the afternoon progressed, it got much more interesting.
I dried out my gear in the first sun I had seen since Skykomish when I was met by more hikers, Mapman and Robin, as well as Serpico and Chris. After drying my gear I climbed the 2000 feet with Serpico and Chris to the higher wildflower fields on the shoulders of Glacier Peak.
Coming up was the infamous seven miles stretch of 400 blowdowns, 400 trees crossing the trail. This included old growth monsters, ten feet wide. It is said to take up to seven hours to make it through.
The three of us started down toward the the equally infamous Suiattle River, more to come on that momentarily. “I thought it would be trees wrapped by vines, cris-crossed into a torturous pattern, impassable… no, not even close. It took us about two hours! I thought of it as a sort of obstacle course like the TV program Ninja Warrior! We vaulted small logs and ducked under monster dead spruce logs.” ~ San Gabriel’s journal dated August 26, 2008.
Then came the Suiattle. This is also from my journal from August 26.
“I have been warned about the treacherous and possibly fatal Suiattle River. There is a scene in Mel Brooks’ Robin Hood Men in Tights when Robin, Achoo, and Blinken must cross a river guarded by Little John. Achoo in his infinite wisdom points out “This ain’t exactly the Mississippi.” I felt a bit like Achoo upon reaching the Suiattle. Though the water was silty and swift, it was shallow and had a very stable log across it, which I walked without much of a thought to the danger gushing by below me. It wasn’t that bad.
There is something that I have learned on my voyage this year: Don’t believe what people tell you! I was told Apache Peak was dangerous, so I took the alternate. After that I vowed to look for myself. The sign at Santiam Pass was… foreboding but hilarious! The area turned out to be safe and navigable. And the Suiattle River was an easier crossing than most of the Sierra rivers and MUCH easier than the gushing torrent I faced before Steven’s Pass.”
The next morning I awoke early and made 21 quick miles to the nearest road. This happened to be the road to Stehekin, an isolated one way gravel number with access between the PCT and the hamlet on the northern end of the fjord-like Lake Chalan.
Here I found Voyageur and Forrest, who had arrived at noon, on the earlier shuttle. I crammed my tent into a nook between trees on the steep grade in the free camp ground.
“The little hamlet exists out of time on the northern shores of dramatic fjord-like Lake Chalan, a glacial fed 50 mile waterway that feeds the Columbia River. The elevation here is about 1500 feet but the mountains tower above the icy deep water, disappearing somewhere in the omnipresent clouds. In the town, a few buildings are scattered along the shore, a post office, restaurant, inn, and a considerable number of residences. There are also a fair many cars, but I have no idea where they get gas! It’s a 50 mile fairy ride to the nearest stoplight!” ~ Me, 8-27-08
“There is much hullabaloo about the Stehekin bakery. The three of us went to said bakery for breakfast, sharing rolls, scones, coffee cake… I must say I am impressed! For a small town Bakery it was very good! The scones were top notch. And the rolls were exceedingly sticky and flaky, simultaneously! I left overly full with a bag of bagels for less than $10. That is less than I would spend on a stack of pancakes and orange juice at any restaurant! I will make a similar return tomorrow before trekking out for the final 88 miles.” -~ Me again, 8-28-08
Delayed by an unfortunate backpack mixup, Forrest and I left after Voyageur on the afternoon of the 29th. It rained several times, but not for very long. We camped in a huckleberry field.
Voyageur was still ahead of us on the 31st and were given news of this several times during the day. Forrest and I awoke, south of Hearts Pass with an inch of snow on the ground. With my hands tucked into my pockets, we paced quickly along the grassy alpine hillsides. We were met by a Hiker named “Phew” So named for the sound she made. “Are you San gabriel and someone else?” She asked Forrest, who was 50 feet in front of me. “Well he is San Gabriel and *I* am someone else.” I think Forrest earned a trailname.
At about 3:00 after fairly ridiculous mileage we finally caught up with Voyageur. We had decided to finish together when we were in Stehekin. And so now we could. We camped early after descending from our last bit of trail above 7000 feet.
From Hopkins Lake, our last camp, it was a mere seven miles to the border. We all had our celebratory border food. Voyageur had prepared a no bake cheesecake which he planned on topping with Huckleberries. Forrest had some classy chocolate, and I had kippered hearing and crackers, in honor of my Norwegian heritage.
On the last switchback with views of the border swath we descended to the border monument. 2650 miles separate the two nearly identical monuments, though the one at Campo was significantly more sun-bleached.
We took an hour at the monument eating our various treats and taking photos under partly cloudy skies. I was overjoyed to be there, but several hundred miles of burned forest in California nagged at me. “gotta finish, gotta finish, gotta finish gotta...” a mantra continued in my head. But for now, I would celebrate.
We were joined presently by Mapman and Robin.
In all, seven hikers left Manning Park en route to Vancouver the next morning. The five of us, accompanied by Lumbar, with whom I had hiked in the Sierras, and Lucky, who I had met in Old Station and Cascade Locks, rode into the bustling metropolis of Vancouver in the early afternoon.
Voyageur and Forrest had made a contact in Leavenworth. That contact had a loft in Vancouver! So we base-camped out of said loft. We enjoyed Indian food our first evening. Voyageur left the next day. Now to find Park Lock.
Vancouver has one of the larger Chinatowns. In 1996 or so I had eaten the most incredible Dim Sum at a restaurant in this very town. I had an address. From the loft it was only 10 blocks to my destination. I looked across the street to the windows on the second story of a dilapidated structure. There it was. I had walked 2500 miles to dine here... Or that’s what I told myself. Racks of clothing blocked the entrance. I looked longingly into the windows for signs of life. The woman who was peddling clothing blocking the entrance shook her head apologetically at me. I circled the other block, only seeing the hours listed in Chinese. I tried again the next day.
I also visited the University, where I had once thought of attending should I pursue a doctorate. I made a pilgrimage to the Olympic village, under construction on the waterfront.
Heartbroken, I left Vancouver with the second best Dim Sum I had ever had in a cardboard box. I had eaten a dozen steamed buns, “Bao” and numerous other dumplings.
One day I will return. For now, I am satisfied and headed to Northern California after I visit family in Seattle and Salem.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
The Great Prophet, BS Billy
August 24 2008
Bridge of the Gods to Skykomish
The warm mostly sunny weather from Oregon changed dramatically on the northern half of the Bridge of the Gods. The minute I stepped into Washington, it started gently sprinkling. Aside from three beautiful days between the Goat Rocks and south of Snoqualmie Pass, it rained on me every day. Prompting the pun, albeit slightly lame pun, “Washaton” and “Washing tons of hikers since 1972!” And likely long before that.
Days tend to blend together when you can’t see anything. I split up the long stretch from Cascade Locks to White Pass with a stop in Trout Lake.
Out my thumb went on the road on a remarkably sunny afternoon after heavy morning rains. Three cars later I was in a car. I didn’t have much of an idea where I would stay, knowing there was a hostel above the outfitter. But my ride, interested in what I was doing offered his unused spare room. I surprised my self by accepting the offer. Not only did I get a room, but I was fed. He just happened to have a few giant free range fully organic steaks in the fridge. AND! I was given a job offer after my host learned of my music education. As the job started on August 23rd and I was set on finishing the PCT and NOT moving from California yet, I politely declined.
The next day I was dropped off in town where I dropped by a local eatery looking for the ubiquitous huckleberry shake. Huckleberries are everywhere up there. After finishing I went to the rest room for a moment, leaving my pack at the table. Upon returning, two people sat in my place. Two... familiar people. “What are you doing here?” I asked to Tarzan and Zelda. They had skipped a little bit and happened to staying in a local hotel.
They introduced me to a couple who were climbing Mt. Adams. That couple dropped me off at the trailhead before going on their way.
I had also seen Voyageur earlier, who I had not seen since northern California.
Trout Lake was a great stop, and while I don’t think the exact lucky circumstances could be repeated, I recommend the town. It is cozy and friendly with everything a hiker needs.
---
With fair weather, I slept with my tent set up, but with the flaps open. Sometime around 2:00 am I awoke to thunder. I looked outside and saw clear skies and stars. The thunder persisted as I slowly regained consciousness. Then it dawned on me that a herd of elk had just passed. The next morning that theory was confirmed as I walked in the hoof prints of a large herd, just 20 feet from my tent.
I was moving early and quickly, not determined to get anywhere in particular, but my short rest in Trout Lake rejuvenated me and the fair weather inspired me. I passed three heavyweight hikers at a jog, climbing a gentle slope toward Sheep Lake. By 3:00 I was having a second lunch, just Over a pass, in a grassy bowl with a view of Mount Saint Helens. I had made 28 miles. I continued in the clear afternoon. Near Packwood Glacier in the Goat Rocks, I spotted a tiny spec on the snow field ahead of me. As I got closer, and closer still, I realized t was yet another familiar hiker, Sheik Olivier. We continued together, with outrageous views of Mount Adams, Saint Helens, and Rainier. We made our way along the precipitous knife edge. As we walked into the shadow of the ridge the temperature dropped dramatically. It dropped from the 70 degrees plus of the afternoon to near freezing in the arctic grassy tundra, north of the Knife Edge.
At White Pass the next day, Olivier and I again parted as he was taking a couple weeks off to see his girlfriend, who was flying to Seattle from France.
Other Hikers I saw at White Pass included Voyageur again, and Lei Low. As I had not seen Lei Low for a while, we hiked out in the evening. We camped two nights together before I decided to undertake a goal I had, to hike 50 miles in a single day.
From Sourdough Gap, it was just under 70 miles to Snoqualmie Pass. I awoke before dawn and packed up quickly. By 11:00 I had 22 miles under my belt, but it was getting downright hot. After Passing Voyageur, I slowed. He caught up with me on a roller coaster of rolling hills near sizable clear cuts. I slowed further and we hiked together, seeing the well known perennial PCT hiker, Billy Goat. Voyageur set up camp on a flat spot with views south. Unsure whether I had even reached 40 miles, I continued on into the evening, camping on a old road, just over 43 miles from my starting point.
After reflection and analysis, I know my faults on my 50 mile attempt. I didn’t eat enough. I would need more snacks for another attempt. I didn’t drink enough water. I should have drank all I could find. After I camped, I downed a good two liters without trying. On a hot day like the day in question, and without any previous hiking day exceeding 40 miles, I thought a couple short breaks may have helped. With better conditioning and a lighter pack, a fifty mile day is well within reach. I could have hiked another two and a half hours, but I wanted to make a daylight attempt.
The next day it began raining and I arrived at Snoqualmie Lodge, soaked through, seeing Forrest, Disco, and P.O.D. Later in the day Voyageur arrived. As thunder shook the building, I was happy to be spread out in a hotel room, three hikers’ gear hanging on every available hanger and door.
Despite the rain, We set out the next day, each at different times. I met up with Forrest later that day and we camped together. The next day, we found Voyageur and the three of us camped together near some horse campers. Late in the evening under one of the heaviest torrents I have ever seen in my life, I heard Forrest, a ways away talking to another hiker. The hiker had forgotten a pole for his tent resulting in being absolutely soaked. The hiker left early in the morning, leaving a mountainous pile of granola bars at Forrest’s door.
If we were on a short trip, we might have enough spare gear to help the hiker, but thru hikers carry very little. We rarely have room in our tiny shelters for more, very few spare clothes. Barely anyone even carries one of those reflective blankets. We only have enough gear for ourselves. The best option when in danger, is to backtrack, or go to the nearest road. We hoped that this wet hiker could find his way to a road the next day and NOT have to endure another rainy night.
So powered by free granola bars, and carrying out the trash we left. (please pack out your own stuff, don’t dump it on others. Or at least ask first, I would probably take it to help someone in need)
In the late morning we approached a creek, but upon getting closer, it sounded more like a dramatic waterfall. Water cascaded down the barren rocks from thousands of feet above toward the valley below. The sodden figure of the hiker we had met at 1:00 am stood, recovering in thoroughly sodden Frogg Toggs on the other side. So there was a way across.
Voyageur, Forrest and I made our way down the steep slope to a slightly less fatal looking ford. The water was slower, after descending hundreds of feet to a relatively flat stretch. Voyageur was first. Without poles, (he doesn’t hike with them” he balanced precariously as water rushed past his ankles, then knees, then thighs. Facing downhill with his hands on a wedged log he side stepped carefully through the deepest and fast part of the current, and let out a resounding “Woohoo!” which echoed across the valley.
I was next, and trudged, painfully slowly to the log, wedged between a few rocks. As I slid my leg into the current, I could feel it wanting to descend the rest of the way down the mountain. I fought fiercely, mule-kicking backward into the current, struggling for footing on the slippery river bed. With one foot up hill and my hands on the slick log, I side-stepped slowly as water rushed past me at hip level.
Once on the other side, we were joined by Forrest, who took a break on the near side, thigh deep, looking as if the swift current had no effect.
Video evidence exists! Check out Voyageur’s video on YouTube
Through continuing rain we made our way to Mig Lake, seven miles short of the road, and a hitch to warm dry lodging.
At the road, our soaked party parted, Voayageur and Forrest heading east to Leavenworth and me, west to Skykomish. Within minutes of sticking out my thumb, a Prius loaded with obvious hikers pulled up, rescuing me from the relentless moisture. The three hikers got out, obviously frightened by my severe wet dog smell. Rabbit and Tumbleweed, two southbounders who had borrowed the vehicle drove back to the Dinsmore’s A trail Angel couple residing in Skykomish.
I was surprised to see a dry version of the hiker who, just the previous day had went swimming in his own tent during the night’s torrent. Apparently he had hiked out an alternate trail to a road, and escape. I was happy to see him warm and dry. Along with Rabbit and Tumbleweed at Dinsmores’ there was a fifth hiker. A clean shaven, short haired guy, a rarity in the hiker community. I recognized him as the same guy who had jogged past me near Big Bear, Eric D. He had already tagged the border and was heading south.
I stayed a second zero day in Skykomish as the Dinsmores needed help with the annual car show that they hosted in the tiny town of Skykomish. So Eric D, Captain Bivy, and I donned orange and acted as parking attendants, guiding cherry Cheveys, Fords, Studabakers, and even a Dalorian, with a personalized license plate “BK2D80S”
As we ate around a bonfire at Dinsmores’ that evening BS Billy struck up a conversation with me. I had not said a word to him until this moment. He bragged about being “good at reading people” So he asked me what my favorite cars was. “Wait don’t tell me...” He said, tapping his chin, squinting. “That Studabaker with the...” He said, “Or the Dalorian.” My two favorites out of the 110 parked in the fairgrounds. He even picked out a future career, not knowing anything about my interests. “You are tough to read... I could see you in a house up in the mountains.” Ok that is vague. But he continued “Making fine instruments out of wood.” I had not told him I was a musician. I had not told him that I wanted to build instruments. I was speechless and sat back, feasting on roasted animal carcass shaking my head.
Now I am typically skeptical of this kinda hocus pocus. And I credit BS Billy’s years as a car salesman for giving him a skill which rivals many psychologists with doctoral degrees. Though the Great Prophet BS Billy’s... prophecy has not yet come true, it was already on my bucket list. “Live in the mountains and make Renaissance musical instruments” It will come to pass!
If you end up in Skykomish, have BS Billy give you a reading.
Bridge of the Gods to Skykomish
The warm mostly sunny weather from Oregon changed dramatically on the northern half of the Bridge of the Gods. The minute I stepped into Washington, it started gently sprinkling. Aside from three beautiful days between the Goat Rocks and south of Snoqualmie Pass, it rained on me every day. Prompting the pun, albeit slightly lame pun, “Washaton” and “Washing tons of hikers since 1972!” And likely long before that.
Days tend to blend together when you can’t see anything. I split up the long stretch from Cascade Locks to White Pass with a stop in Trout Lake.
Out my thumb went on the road on a remarkably sunny afternoon after heavy morning rains. Three cars later I was in a car. I didn’t have much of an idea where I would stay, knowing there was a hostel above the outfitter. But my ride, interested in what I was doing offered his unused spare room. I surprised my self by accepting the offer. Not only did I get a room, but I was fed. He just happened to have a few giant free range fully organic steaks in the fridge. AND! I was given a job offer after my host learned of my music education. As the job started on August 23rd and I was set on finishing the PCT and NOT moving from California yet, I politely declined.
The next day I was dropped off in town where I dropped by a local eatery looking for the ubiquitous huckleberry shake. Huckleberries are everywhere up there. After finishing I went to the rest room for a moment, leaving my pack at the table. Upon returning, two people sat in my place. Two... familiar people. “What are you doing here?” I asked to Tarzan and Zelda. They had skipped a little bit and happened to staying in a local hotel.
They introduced me to a couple who were climbing Mt. Adams. That couple dropped me off at the trailhead before going on their way.
I had also seen Voyageur earlier, who I had not seen since northern California.
Trout Lake was a great stop, and while I don’t think the exact lucky circumstances could be repeated, I recommend the town. It is cozy and friendly with everything a hiker needs.
---
With fair weather, I slept with my tent set up, but with the flaps open. Sometime around 2:00 am I awoke to thunder. I looked outside and saw clear skies and stars. The thunder persisted as I slowly regained consciousness. Then it dawned on me that a herd of elk had just passed. The next morning that theory was confirmed as I walked in the hoof prints of a large herd, just 20 feet from my tent.
I was moving early and quickly, not determined to get anywhere in particular, but my short rest in Trout Lake rejuvenated me and the fair weather inspired me. I passed three heavyweight hikers at a jog, climbing a gentle slope toward Sheep Lake. By 3:00 I was having a second lunch, just Over a pass, in a grassy bowl with a view of Mount Saint Helens. I had made 28 miles. I continued in the clear afternoon. Near Packwood Glacier in the Goat Rocks, I spotted a tiny spec on the snow field ahead of me. As I got closer, and closer still, I realized t was yet another familiar hiker, Sheik Olivier. We continued together, with outrageous views of Mount Adams, Saint Helens, and Rainier. We made our way along the precipitous knife edge. As we walked into the shadow of the ridge the temperature dropped dramatically. It dropped from the 70 degrees plus of the afternoon to near freezing in the arctic grassy tundra, north of the Knife Edge.
At White Pass the next day, Olivier and I again parted as he was taking a couple weeks off to see his girlfriend, who was flying to Seattle from France.
Other Hikers I saw at White Pass included Voyageur again, and Lei Low. As I had not seen Lei Low for a while, we hiked out in the evening. We camped two nights together before I decided to undertake a goal I had, to hike 50 miles in a single day.
From Sourdough Gap, it was just under 70 miles to Snoqualmie Pass. I awoke before dawn and packed up quickly. By 11:00 I had 22 miles under my belt, but it was getting downright hot. After Passing Voyageur, I slowed. He caught up with me on a roller coaster of rolling hills near sizable clear cuts. I slowed further and we hiked together, seeing the well known perennial PCT hiker, Billy Goat. Voyageur set up camp on a flat spot with views south. Unsure whether I had even reached 40 miles, I continued on into the evening, camping on a old road, just over 43 miles from my starting point.
After reflection and analysis, I know my faults on my 50 mile attempt. I didn’t eat enough. I would need more snacks for another attempt. I didn’t drink enough water. I should have drank all I could find. After I camped, I downed a good two liters without trying. On a hot day like the day in question, and without any previous hiking day exceeding 40 miles, I thought a couple short breaks may have helped. With better conditioning and a lighter pack, a fifty mile day is well within reach. I could have hiked another two and a half hours, but I wanted to make a daylight attempt.
The next day it began raining and I arrived at Snoqualmie Lodge, soaked through, seeing Forrest, Disco, and P.O.D. Later in the day Voyageur arrived. As thunder shook the building, I was happy to be spread out in a hotel room, three hikers’ gear hanging on every available hanger and door.
Despite the rain, We set out the next day, each at different times. I met up with Forrest later that day and we camped together. The next day, we found Voyageur and the three of us camped together near some horse campers. Late in the evening under one of the heaviest torrents I have ever seen in my life, I heard Forrest, a ways away talking to another hiker. The hiker had forgotten a pole for his tent resulting in being absolutely soaked. The hiker left early in the morning, leaving a mountainous pile of granola bars at Forrest’s door.
If we were on a short trip, we might have enough spare gear to help the hiker, but thru hikers carry very little. We rarely have room in our tiny shelters for more, very few spare clothes. Barely anyone even carries one of those reflective blankets. We only have enough gear for ourselves. The best option when in danger, is to backtrack, or go to the nearest road. We hoped that this wet hiker could find his way to a road the next day and NOT have to endure another rainy night.
So powered by free granola bars, and carrying out the trash we left. (please pack out your own stuff, don’t dump it on others. Or at least ask first, I would probably take it to help someone in need)
In the late morning we approached a creek, but upon getting closer, it sounded more like a dramatic waterfall. Water cascaded down the barren rocks from thousands of feet above toward the valley below. The sodden figure of the hiker we had met at 1:00 am stood, recovering in thoroughly sodden Frogg Toggs on the other side. So there was a way across.
Voyageur, Forrest and I made our way down the steep slope to a slightly less fatal looking ford. The water was slower, after descending hundreds of feet to a relatively flat stretch. Voyageur was first. Without poles, (he doesn’t hike with them” he balanced precariously as water rushed past his ankles, then knees, then thighs. Facing downhill with his hands on a wedged log he side stepped carefully through the deepest and fast part of the current, and let out a resounding “Woohoo!” which echoed across the valley.
I was next, and trudged, painfully slowly to the log, wedged between a few rocks. As I slid my leg into the current, I could feel it wanting to descend the rest of the way down the mountain. I fought fiercely, mule-kicking backward into the current, struggling for footing on the slippery river bed. With one foot up hill and my hands on the slick log, I side-stepped slowly as water rushed past me at hip level.
Once on the other side, we were joined by Forrest, who took a break on the near side, thigh deep, looking as if the swift current had no effect.
Video evidence exists! Check out Voyageur’s video on YouTube
Through continuing rain we made our way to Mig Lake, seven miles short of the road, and a hitch to warm dry lodging.
At the road, our soaked party parted, Voayageur and Forrest heading east to Leavenworth and me, west to Skykomish. Within minutes of sticking out my thumb, a Prius loaded with obvious hikers pulled up, rescuing me from the relentless moisture. The three hikers got out, obviously frightened by my severe wet dog smell. Rabbit and Tumbleweed, two southbounders who had borrowed the vehicle drove back to the Dinsmore’s A trail Angel couple residing in Skykomish.
I was surprised to see a dry version of the hiker who, just the previous day had went swimming in his own tent during the night’s torrent. Apparently he had hiked out an alternate trail to a road, and escape. I was happy to see him warm and dry. Along with Rabbit and Tumbleweed at Dinsmores’ there was a fifth hiker. A clean shaven, short haired guy, a rarity in the hiker community. I recognized him as the same guy who had jogged past me near Big Bear, Eric D. He had already tagged the border and was heading south.
I stayed a second zero day in Skykomish as the Dinsmores needed help with the annual car show that they hosted in the tiny town of Skykomish. So Eric D, Captain Bivy, and I donned orange and acted as parking attendants, guiding cherry Cheveys, Fords, Studabakers, and even a Dalorian, with a personalized license plate “BK2D80S”
As we ate around a bonfire at Dinsmores’ that evening BS Billy struck up a conversation with me. I had not said a word to him until this moment. He bragged about being “good at reading people” So he asked me what my favorite cars was. “Wait don’t tell me...” He said, tapping his chin, squinting. “That Studabaker with the...” He said, “Or the Dalorian.” My two favorites out of the 110 parked in the fairgrounds. He even picked out a future career, not knowing anything about my interests. “You are tough to read... I could see you in a house up in the mountains.” Ok that is vague. But he continued “Making fine instruments out of wood.” I had not told him I was a musician. I had not told him that I wanted to build instruments. I was speechless and sat back, feasting on roasted animal carcass shaking my head.
Now I am typically skeptical of this kinda hocus pocus. And I credit BS Billy’s years as a car salesman for giving him a skill which rivals many psychologists with doctoral degrees. Though the Great Prophet BS Billy’s... prophecy has not yet come true, it was already on my bucket list. “Live in the mountains and make Renaissance musical instruments” It will come to pass!
If you end up in Skykomish, have BS Billy give you a reading.
Thursday, August 7, 2008
“You’ll Never Make It!”
Ashland to Washington
It was a fresh start and I was determined to maintain unbroken footfalls all the way to Canada! Hitching out of Ashland was surprisingly easy and I was dropped off at the trailhead in the late morning. Each day I increased my mileage slightl, careful not to exceed 25. This is a difficult thing to do in Oregon as the trail is relatively flat. Ancient laval fields, now produce endless Lodgepole Pine forests. birds are scarce and the soil is sandy, not particularly rich. As Olivier and I neared Crater Lake, we began to see more Spruce, but still the terrain was flat.
It is amazing how hikers seem to collide in towns and at outposts. At Crater Lake, we ran into a sizable group of hikers, a “regular hiker-trash jamboree” as one hiker pointed out.
Even wreathed in haze from California’s fires, Crater Lake is a sight to behold. The cliffs of the once mammoth volcano crash hundreds of feet to the deep fjord-like like below. The trail around the lake, however, is difficult. There are many PUDs (pointless ups and downs) We could have walked the road that hugs the cliffs and had plenty of views.
After we left the rim, it was over 20 miles of flat pumice desert dotted with pines before water. At least it was flat, and Olivier and I, now accompanied by a third hiker, Forrest made excellent time to our early camp below Thielsen Peak
Days later, nearing McKenzie Pass, the weather began to turn. It began sprinkling in the evening and the three of us began looking for a camp. We passed several acceptable spots, but decided to continue. As the mist began to fall and blow harder we clambered up onto the lava rock path across the much less ancient lava field. One can feel every step on the sharp aa, Into the darkness we trudged. It would have been impossible to sleep on any of this terrain, but one of us, I can’t remember who spotted something, a structure. “We could always sleep in the public restroom at the pass”
We found something better. I would hazard to say that ANYTHING is better than sleeping in a public restroom however. But we found one of the most memorable camps of my entire hike. I didn’t see where Olivier and Forrest were going until we were on the stone path, circling upwards into lava ramparts. The McKenzie Pass Observatory. We hung our food to keep it away from rodents and huddled into the corners of the rock structure
It wasn’t exactly my most comfortable or warmest night, but we were well sheltered and it was fun to stay in such a structure. The early morning sunlight beamed through holes in the wall. WHile one could certainly fire arrows out of said holes, they were actually aligned to see surrounding mountains. Plaques on the wall said things like “Black Butte, elevation 7800 feet, 11.2 miles.” I don’t recall exact numbers, so please forgive the error if you happen to know it.
---
“You’ll Never Make it!” was drawn in sharpie on the bottom of a sign warning hikers of the snow levels near Mt. Jefferson. And so five hikers ignored the sign, and I believe many more. Forrest and I, sans Olivier, were now accompanied by Disco, P.O.D. and Hearsay. The first 20 miles came easily, but as we crested the shoulders of Mount Jefferson, the snow became heavier. Fog rolled in obscuring all views. As evening descended we gave up looking for the trail and settled into a cluster of spruce for the evening.
In the morning, Forrest could be heard several hundred feet down the hill shouting “Found it!” Presently we were joined by two other hikers, Truant, and Sweetfish. The seven of us traversed the slope, downward and finally stood on trail. There wasn’t much of it, but we had found it. From here we were able to traverse downward. Eventually the trail was more defined and easy to follow... really all the way to the end. But I am not there yet. An epic glissade met us on the north side of The View, where both Jefferson and Hood could be seen. in the now cloudless conditions.
---
Timberline Lodge was the setting for The Shining. The outside of the lodge might strike fear into some. It is a massive old ski lodge on the shoulders of Mount Hood, right at treeline. They have a very well known all you can eat breakfast buffet that hikers lust after for miles before and after. I got my 12 dollars worth in fresh juice alone! Forrest and I even shared a pizza before we staggered onward.
---
THe PCT splits near Eagle Creek. The official route is higher up and descends somewhere into Cascade Locks while the Eagle Creek route descends more quickly to... well Eagle Creek. This is a very scenic section of trail.
As the elevation dropped, the vegetation became increasingly moist. Berry vines, shrubs, and other flora were everywhere! But, alas the berries were either picked clean or unripe. Down the trail, paralleling Eagle Creek, views could be seen of the creek, and through the canopy of trees, the ridges above. The trail was apparently carved and blasted into the cliffside.
As I rounded a corner, Tunnel Falls could be seen, dramatically cascading from the cliff above. The trail actually tunnels into the rock, behind the falls! I can see why this was a popular spot for my family’s outdoor adventures when they lived in Portland.
It was a fresh start and I was determined to maintain unbroken footfalls all the way to Canada! Hitching out of Ashland was surprisingly easy and I was dropped off at the trailhead in the late morning. Each day I increased my mileage slightl, careful not to exceed 25. This is a difficult thing to do in Oregon as the trail is relatively flat. Ancient laval fields, now produce endless Lodgepole Pine forests. birds are scarce and the soil is sandy, not particularly rich. As Olivier and I neared Crater Lake, we began to see more Spruce, but still the terrain was flat.
It is amazing how hikers seem to collide in towns and at outposts. At Crater Lake, we ran into a sizable group of hikers, a “regular hiker-trash jamboree” as one hiker pointed out.
Even wreathed in haze from California’s fires, Crater Lake is a sight to behold. The cliffs of the once mammoth volcano crash hundreds of feet to the deep fjord-like like below. The trail around the lake, however, is difficult. There are many PUDs (pointless ups and downs) We could have walked the road that hugs the cliffs and had plenty of views.
After we left the rim, it was over 20 miles of flat pumice desert dotted with pines before water. At least it was flat, and Olivier and I, now accompanied by a third hiker, Forrest made excellent time to our early camp below Thielsen Peak
Days later, nearing McKenzie Pass, the weather began to turn. It began sprinkling in the evening and the three of us began looking for a camp. We passed several acceptable spots, but decided to continue. As the mist began to fall and blow harder we clambered up onto the lava rock path across the much less ancient lava field. One can feel every step on the sharp aa, Into the darkness we trudged. It would have been impossible to sleep on any of this terrain, but one of us, I can’t remember who spotted something, a structure. “We could always sleep in the public restroom at the pass”
We found something better. I would hazard to say that ANYTHING is better than sleeping in a public restroom however. But we found one of the most memorable camps of my entire hike. I didn’t see where Olivier and Forrest were going until we were on the stone path, circling upwards into lava ramparts. The McKenzie Pass Observatory. We hung our food to keep it away from rodents and huddled into the corners of the rock structure
It wasn’t exactly my most comfortable or warmest night, but we were well sheltered and it was fun to stay in such a structure. The early morning sunlight beamed through holes in the wall. WHile one could certainly fire arrows out of said holes, they were actually aligned to see surrounding mountains. Plaques on the wall said things like “Black Butte, elevation 7800 feet, 11.2 miles.” I don’t recall exact numbers, so please forgive the error if you happen to know it.
---
“You’ll Never Make it!” was drawn in sharpie on the bottom of a sign warning hikers of the snow levels near Mt. Jefferson. And so five hikers ignored the sign, and I believe many more. Forrest and I, sans Olivier, were now accompanied by Disco, P.O.D. and Hearsay. The first 20 miles came easily, but as we crested the shoulders of Mount Jefferson, the snow became heavier. Fog rolled in obscuring all views. As evening descended we gave up looking for the trail and settled into a cluster of spruce for the evening.
In the morning, Forrest could be heard several hundred feet down the hill shouting “Found it!” Presently we were joined by two other hikers, Truant, and Sweetfish. The seven of us traversed the slope, downward and finally stood on trail. There wasn’t much of it, but we had found it. From here we were able to traverse downward. Eventually the trail was more defined and easy to follow... really all the way to the end. But I am not there yet. An epic glissade met us on the north side of The View, where both Jefferson and Hood could be seen. in the now cloudless conditions.
---
Timberline Lodge was the setting for The Shining. The outside of the lodge might strike fear into some. It is a massive old ski lodge on the shoulders of Mount Hood, right at treeline. They have a very well known all you can eat breakfast buffet that hikers lust after for miles before and after. I got my 12 dollars worth in fresh juice alone! Forrest and I even shared a pizza before we staggered onward.
---
THe PCT splits near Eagle Creek. The official route is higher up and descends somewhere into Cascade Locks while the Eagle Creek route descends more quickly to... well Eagle Creek. This is a very scenic section of trail.
As the elevation dropped, the vegetation became increasingly moist. Berry vines, shrubs, and other flora were everywhere! But, alas the berries were either picked clean or unripe. Down the trail, paralleling Eagle Creek, views could be seen of the creek, and through the canopy of trees, the ridges above. The trail was apparently carved and blasted into the cliffside.
As I rounded a corner, Tunnel Falls could be seen, dramatically cascading from the cliff above. The trail actually tunnels into the rock, behind the falls! I can see why this was a popular spot for my family’s outdoor adventures when they lived in Portland.
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